Mount Whitney: A View from the Top

Join Conservationist and Nature Photographer Ian Shive as he takes on a personal challenge: summiting the tallest mountain in the lower 48, Mount Whitney.

June 07, 2021

By: Ian Shive

Show: Nature in Focus

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Photo By: Ian Shive

The trail along the way to the tallest peak in the lower 48 states is a stunningly beautiful journey through the best of California's Sierra Mountains. Alpine lakes abound, separating the land from the sky. As we climb higher and higher, oxygen becomes thinner, eventually too thin for even the trees, which is a good indication of your progress along the trail.

I typically travel on most adventures with my friend Dante Fernandes, who's idea it was to test our skills on Mt. Whitney. We've traveled from the Aleutian Islands to the remote coral atolls of the Pacific, but taking on a challenge in our own backyard was something we had both mused about for awhile. We lucked out, scoring a "lottery" permit, a system designed to prevent overcrowding of the resource, and giving us a chance to climb the mountain on our free time. Mt. Whitney has long been one of the most popular climbs in the country, but people often mistake popularity with safety. It is a rigorous, difficult climb that can result in injury or death. This should not be your first big mountain, but rather a goal to reach after reaching other, smaller mountain summits.

Along the hike is a popular spot for day hikers to stop, known as Lone Pine Lake. Climbing the Whitney trail in early May, we still encountered a fair amount of snow and ice, but it allows for more dramatic imagery, too. All this snow, ice and freshwater are great news for climbers, as we have to rely solely on purifying our drinking and cooking water as we go.

The higher you go, the less oxygen there is in the atmosphere, making high altitude climbs a mental challenge as much as a physical challenge. The climb is mostly just a slow, steady crawl upwards, but the lack of air can have numerous effects on the body, mind and spirit. Altitude sickness can be a serious problem, and if climbers feel the pinch, they should head down. Thankfully our climb felt great, with perfect weather and conditions and time to admire the view along the way.

The first few miles of the climb are pretty, but mostly in the forest. As you get higher up, the views change to dramatic granite peaks, frozen alpine lakes and fast moving weather systems. As a photographer, it's this high altitude landscape that appeals to me the most, as you have to put in the work to get the shot!

One of the most popular and final stops before the summit push is Trail Camp, at about 12,000 feet in elevation. For those doing the climb over several days (such as us), this is a great place to acclimate to the high altitude and take in the incredible views of Mt. Whitney and the surrounding jagged mountain tops. It's also a good spot to cook some dinner and rest before the final climb to 14,505 feet.

The second the sun dips behind the mountains, the warm light disappears, and so does the warm weather. Temperatures dropped from the high 50s to below freezing in a matter of hours. This is yet another challenge and reality of mountaineering,. Even in my photos, you can feel the temperature drop by the shift of light from warm and yellow, to cold and blue.

Sunrise from Trail Camp is one of the greatest experiences of climbing Mt. Whitney, as the alpenglow that occurs as the light hits the peaks is an exceptionally warm, deep color. We were up before the sunrise, as were many other climbers, so we could begin the final stretch to the summit when it was cooler and therefore easier and safer to travel over the snow and ice pack. In the warmer part of the day, the snow would become slushy and more slippery.

One of the more tedious and often difficult and dangerous stretches is an area known as "the switchbacks." They do just that, switch back and forth up the steep sides of the mountain, bringing climbers closer to the summit of Mt. Whitney in a relatively short distance. Snow, ice, wind, rain and every other element is possible and can make the narrow passage a dangerous place to be. At the same time, it is also one of the most beautiful places to be and a great stop to take a photograph of Mt. Whitney itself (visible about 3/4 down the mountain chain).

The top of the switchbacks! From here the trail snakes behind the mountains you've been looking at for the last couple days and takes you into Sequoia National Park.

What many people don't realize is that the trail to Mt. Whitney from the Lone Pine, California side of the Sierra Mountains takes place in Inyo National Forest, with only the final stretch of the climb, including the summit of Mt. Whitney, the tallest peak in the continental United States, falling inside Sequoia National Park. This sign was a great marker that there were only a few miles ahead.

Alas, the summit! 14,505 feet and a view from the top of the world! Getting to the top is really only half the battle, as getting back requires even more energy and the same careful approach you take coming up. Changing weather and conditions in the afternoon, during any season, can add to the challenges.

One of the great traditions of summiting Mt. Whitney is the opportunity to write your name in the ledger with those who came before you. Just be sure to bring a pen!

Only a few feet from the actual summit is a rock hut, the final marker on the long journey to the top. There are no resources here, so be sure to bring a lot of water as there is very little after Trail Camp.

The final approach to 14,505 feet is a relatively easy climb, with a moderate grade and a wide open space and trail. The more narrow areas we encountered just prior are challenging, so having a homestretch that is more about perseverance than technical climbing was very welcome.