The Art of Ancient Winemaking

Take a tour of the Zibibbo vineyard in the Donnafugata Winery and around Pantelleria with Explorer Emiliano Ruprah. This Unesco site is home to the very special grape cultivation technique used on the Sicilian island of Pantelleria.

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November 17, 2020

By: Emiliano Ruprah

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Photo By: Emiliano Ruprah

It takes approximately 140 tons of Zibibbo grapes to make just 80,000 bottles of Passito di Pantelleria; eight pounds of fresh grapes equate to a little over two pounds of grapes after drying, followed by eight to ten hours of maceration during vinification.

Zibibbo vineyard in the Donnafugata winery in Pantelleria. Unesco has voted unanimously (161 countries) to include the very special grape cultivation technique used on the Sicilian island of Pantelleria on its prestigious World Heritage list.

Pantelleria growers use the “alberello” technique to grow their prized Zibibbo or Alexandrian Muscat grapes, which are used to make the volcanic island’s famous Passito wines. The plant is grown in the volcanic soil in small hollows below ground level in order to protect them from wind and use the few water available in the most efficient way.

Zibibbo is one of the few existing aromatic wine grapes. Like Gewürztraminer, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc, its berries contain high levels of organic compounds called terpenes. Zibibbo, in particular, has a super concentration of linalool, geraniol, and nerol, all of them responsible for the wines' intense aromas. It is also of a resilient variety: it is resistant to drought and hot climates, and recent studies suggest that Zibibbo is among the most interesting varieties to consider in an era of climate change.

This traditional crate has been used to dry Zibibbo grapes for generations. The grapes are placed on a mesh surface so they can breathe and are then flipped so the sun can transform them evenly.

Donnafugata’s drying tents, where Zibibbo grapes are sun dried, lie in a valley next to ancient Dammuso homes. This is one of the coolest valleys on the island and can drop up to three degrees lower than surrounding areas. It's a perfect microclimate to preserve Zibibbo grapes.

Antonio Rallo of Donnafugata explores some of his Zibibbo vineyards. It’s a labor of love. Difficult farming conditions mean that harvesting Zibibbo on Pantelleria costs three times what it would on the Sicilian mainland. Historically fragmented vineyard ownership adds complications to harvesting. Pantelleria’s location (near Tunisia) complicates shipping. Adding to the difficulty is the passito process itself, which requires a late harvest and 20 days of drying.

A local harvests grape clusters as the fog rolls in. If the fog reaches the grapes and they retain the moisture, they could rot and fall to the ground.

Mature Zibibbo grapes already in the process of concentrating flavors and aromas while still on the stalk.

Traditional Dammuso homes and a vast sprawling landscape of grape vines grown in terraces are the signature landmarks of Pantelleria.

Hikers explore the rugged landscape of Pantelleria.

The volcanic coastline of pantelleria is dotted with buildings from another era like this lighthouse and WWII bunker. The climatic conditions range drastically from the coastline to the mountains beyond the lighthouse.

A view of the Pantelleria lighthouse from the bowels of an abandoned WWII bunker.

Pantelleria is made up of countless microclimates. Its volcanic geology makes for a nutrient rich landscape. The unique combination between its geology and geography make it uniquely suited to grow Zibibbo.

Fresh grapes are pressed. Seeds and stems are removed for vinification.

Boxes of freshly picked Zibibbo grape clusters are carried off and transported to be dried under the sun.

This fresh batch will be transported to the inside of a drying tent and left until it has transformed into its raisined, sweet and fragrant form.

Grapes are dried under tents to protect them from the elements. The spaces are open enough for light and wind to enter, dry the grapes and concentrate their flavors.

Passito di Pantelleria was granted DOC status in August 1971. It was the third Sicilian wine style to gain a DOC title, after Etna (August 1968) and Marsala (April 1969). Pictured above is Ben Rye passito by Donnafugata. You can learn more about it here.